Thursday 25 August 2011

Gibbs Farm, and on to Ngorongoro

Rüppell’s Robin-Chat Another fantastic day! I woke before dawn so went for a brief stroll on my own around some paddy-fields. Saw a few new bits and bobs, including a couple of new birds for the trip: Black Crake and Bronze Mannikin. Returning for breakfast, a photogenic Rüppell’s Robin-Chat was posing in nice light. I returned to the paddy-fields with Tom an hour or so later as it had been quite birdy at dawn, but it was much quieter, so after he’d seen the Crake, we pressed on as we had a few hours drive to the luxurious Gibbs Farm.

View over ManyaraThe first stop was only a short distance away at a view-point where we had a last look at Lake Manyara and the park that we had had such a great time in the day before. Elephants could be seen in the distance and a Green Mamba rather more closely.Green Mamba

The drive took about two and a half hours, with a couple of stops on the way. A new mammal was seen, Smith’s Red Rock Hare, as well as a few new bird trip-ticks: Long-crested Eagle, Greenshank, and Green Sandpiper. The scenery was interesting, becoming gradually dryer and dustier as we climbed towards the farm. On arrival at the rather grand and expensive lodge (Michelle asked why we didn’t stay a night there!), we immediately saw several new birds, including Arrow-marked Babbler and Cardinal Woodpecker.

Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaterLeaving Michelle and Sam to walk around the coffee plantation and relax in the luxurious gardens, myself and Tom went on a guided walk along a hilly trail. This proved excellent, and a number of new birds were seen. The obvious highlight was African Broadbill but other great birds including Hildebrandt's Francolin, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Moustached Tinkerbird, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Lesser Honeyguide, Eastern Mountain-Greenbul, Red-faced Cisticola, Black-throated Wattle-eye, White-tailed Blue-Flycatcher, African Hill Babbler, Brown-headed Apalis, Abyssinian Crimson-wing, and Southern Citril. Others included Tambourine Dove, Nubian Woodpecker, Black Cuckoo-shrike (female), Green-backed Camaroptera, Ashy Flycatcher, Olive Thrush, Collared Sunbird, Broad-ringed White-eye, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Spectacled Weaver, and Streaky Seedeater. Tom also saw Greater Honeyguide.

White-tailed Blue-Flycatcher Red-faced Cisticola

Meeting the others later than scheduled, we had an excellent lunch and walked or relaxed in the gardens as well as used what must be the grandest wash-facilities in the whole of Africa! Whilst sitting in the gardens, admiring the view, sipping a beer, and watching the Baglafecht Weavers and Speckled Mousebirds feeding on the bird table, we were lucky enough to record both species of Yellow Warbler (African Yellow Warbler and Mountain Yellow Warbler)!

Baglafecht WeaverMountain Yellow WarblerAfrican Yellow Warbler

Ngorongoro entranceMid-afternoon we pressed on towards the Ngorongoro crater, arriving at the entrance a couple of hours or so before dusk. After the formalities of entering the park were carried out we took a slow drive, to the crater rim looking for Schalow's Turaco on the way, but failing. We did however manage to see Bar-throated Apalis, African Black-headed Oriole, and Black-crowned Tchagra.

An hour or so before dusk we reached the crater rim where we had what must possibly be the best view in the whole world! Certainly the most magnificent view I have ever witnessed. Using binoculars we could see the herds of mega-fauna in the crater below, waiting for us, as we would be in the crater tomorrow.

Crater viewIMG_1210

From here we made the short journey to our overnight accommodation, the Rhino Lodge. A beautiful and very atmospheric place to stay, with Marabou Storks on the lawn, and with wonderful views and sounds of the forest.

Our back balcony overlooked a small grassy area where there had been Waterbuck when we arrived. Myself and Sam sat out after dinner and were treated to torch views of a Spotted Hyena before we turned in for the night.

Sam at the Rhino Lodge